As I live, work, and travel through Kenya, I’ve noted some interesting, some odd (at least odd by my Western standards although not necessarily by Kenyan standards, and some quaint things here. I’ve mentioned some in previous blogs, but I thought I’d mention or further explain some here in no particular order or importance.
*****
I think I mentioned before how Kenyans like to vigorously shake hands in greeting. Interestingly, if their right hand is dirty or holding something, they’ll extend their wrist for you to shake instead. Sometimes, old friends will greet by slapping their right palms together, and sometimes, some will even give you a “soul-style” handshake (hard to explain that one – but think of the old African-American TV show “Good Times”).
*****
Eating with one’s hands is very expected and normal here. In fact, Kenyans (in rural areas) find using forks, knives, and spoons interesting and will even watch to see how you use them. Anyway, it’s common to wash your hands before the meal, because your hands are your “utensils” and using dirty hands is considered a social faux pas. In Wajir, spaghetti or pasta is quite commonly served along with rice and occasionally, but not as often, ugale (the cornmeal type starch). It’s kind of grossly fascinating to watch people (usually men as Somali women usually don’t eat out in the very few eating establishments, or hotels) use their hands to mash the spaghetti with sauce, meat, rice, chipati, or whatever thrown together on a big platter, pick it all up in a very large bunch, and stuff it in their mouths to eat. As you might imagine, it’s an interesting mess that brings to mind small children eating their meals. I think I’ll stick to my standard utensils…actually, I’m missing using chopsticks…After the meal, everyone reaches for toothpicks…
*****
Bodily functions and picking one’s nose…Actually, this isn’t the only culture (normal for plenty of Asian cultures) where letting rip a burp in mid-conversation or out of nowhere doesn’t raise any eyebrows. What is odd (to my Western and Asian sensibilities) is the fact that no one thinks it odd or gross to very obviously pick one’s nose in public, even as one is talking to others. What do they do after they pick their nose? They might wipe their finger on their clothing, but more often they just flick their finger or rub their fingers together to remove whatever they picked…..Let’s just say that I am trying to always remember not to touch my face or eat before I’ve washed my hands or used my hand sanitizer given how many hands I shake in greeting.
*****
If you think someone is hissing at you, they may be just trying to get your attention. It might be a bit disconcerting at first, but Kenyans will hiss in the direction of a person whose attention they’re seeking. Interesting actually.
*****
Garbage or the disposal of it is an interesting issue. While in most industrialized nations we’ve become sensitized to trying to keep our environment clean, recycling, not littering, and not contributing to unnecessary waste, those notions seem to have yet to catch on here. There are signs that some are trying to introduce these ideas here, but they seem to be fighting an uphill battle. Many here seem to think nothing of just rolling down the car window and tossing an empty bottle or other litter out onto the road, as, much to my chagrin, I’ve found when carrying some of the local public health officials in my car. One time, I had stuffed a used handwipe into the empty plastic packet and had handed it to one of my security guards for him to do the same with the handwipe I’d given him for use. After he put his in the plastic packet and before I knew what he was about, he had rolled down his window and thrown the whole lot out the window and contributed to the accumulating litter that I’ve seen out in the bush. It’s really kind of sad.
The different areas of the countryside here are really quite beautiful, but they are gradually becoming marred by litter. Along roads, you can count on seeing the occasional black plastic bag or water bottle container. In towns, garbage has accumulated on the “streets” and roads. Moyale was especially filthy with trash in the streets. I inquired whether there was any regular garbage pickup or a common garbage dump or any type of recycling. The concepts are beyond what seems possible for them. Most people either burn their garbage (yes, even the plastics – don’t want to consider the amount of toxins contributing to the overall pollution) or just dump them wherever. Many don’t seem to mind living amongst the garbage – bizarre. I suppose some recycling occurs inadvertently. The large yellow plastic containers in which vegetable oil (a very common cooking staple here) is packaged are often kept to later serve as water carriers. Any metal goods like large metal cans containing food stuffs commonly from the U.S. and other sources of relief aid are often opened up and flattened and used as building material on houses (e.g., doors). Even the cloth of old clothes or the cardboard from boxes or the paper from newspapers may be used as part of the building materials for houses and other buildings.
*****
Trying to hitch a ride is very common on the rural roads here, but whereas in the U.S. and other Western countries, it’s not advisable with regard to safety for either the hitcher or the driver, here, it’s generally safe for the hitcher and common practice. The driver, however, is the one taking the risk of picking up someone who might be out to either rob you or swindle you out of your money or worse. Anyway, you’ll often see people trying to flag down a car by waving, or rather, flapping, their outstretched hand up and down, usually palm down. I’m sure the many rural people we pass think I must be some rich stuck-up foreigner who won’t even stop to give them a lift. Oh, and the hitching isn’t limited to trying to flag a car down. Whenever we stop anywhere, someone is always asking whether we can just take them here or there. Sorry. UN rules – no extra riders, but even without those rules, I wouldn’t pick up someone I don’t know, especially in a foreign country. There are stories about what can happen if you do…
*****
Holding hands among males is a common sight. Unlike in the West where homophobia seems to abound. Here in Kenya and elsewhere in Africa, it’s accepted as a show of close friendship among males. Reminds me of the innocence and openness of children.
*****
Computer viruses unfortunately seem to be commonplace on many systems here. Interestingly, I’ve noticed that many have appropriate antivirus software on their computers. However, it seems that they don’t realize that the software needs to be periodically updated and that the computers should be scanned regularly. So viruses run amuck unchecked. A big problem. I had a horrible time the last few weeks with a couple of viruses I picked up from the national public health headquarters and then from the Wajir district health computers. Being out in the field and having computer issues can be a real challenge, but often, the situation forces you to be resourceful and creative to deal with the problems; otherwise, you’re paralyzed or your work is. Well, these viruses definitely mucked up my computer to the point where programs would barely run and files wouldn’t open. I finally figured out that whatever they were, the viruses were directly affecting and tying up my antivirus software. Then, I figured out how to expunge them from my computer. What a relief. Having a functioning computer in the field is a must – not to mention that it also allows me to write these blogs so I can upload them later to the website. Anyway, I’ve learned my lesson. Just as one should always be careful who one takes up with (i.e., has sex with, to be more blunt), with computers in a foreign country, better to not share files unless one really has no other choice. Then, one should always have protections in place.
*****
Cell phones have really taken off here. Makes sense in a weird way. Laying down phone lines in the bush or unstable areas can be a real challenge. Add to that the maintenance issues. On the other hand, establishing and erecting some well-placed cell towers is a much more tenable option in a country such as this. Interestingly, most people here just buy a certain amount of credits for their cell phone and replenish credits as needed rather than signing up for a long term contract with set minutes like we tend to do in the U.S. Texting, as elsewhere, is a cheap and affordable option compared to voice, so many send text messages. They even have the option to send a free text message to someone to ask that person to call them in case the first person has no or limited credits to call the other. Of course, some abuse that option to get the person with whom they want to talk to pay for the phone call rather than using their own credits to call.
*****
Many Kenyan women, especially in rural areas, will carry their infants by slinging them in a large cloth that they wrap around one shoulder and back. Kind of reminds me of how Asians also carry their infants. My mother used to do the same when I when I was a child. It’s funny how in the U.S. and other Western cultures the “Baby Bjorn” and other fancy baby slings are popular now when many other societies and cultures have always used a cheaper and easier option. Interestingly, I didn’t Somali women carrying their infants in this way, but then that may have something to do with the fact that their style of dress (i.e., Muslim covering) is not exactly conducive to such a sling.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment